Maudit flacon5/2/2023 Rose phobics or those who do like rose but dread the engulfing tentacles of it when combined with usual suspects sandalwood or oudh in an Arabian setting need not be scared. The woody effect given by papyrus wood is slightly smoky, the feel of a distant campfire rather than having the barbecue right on the lawn. Thankfully as most contemporary oudh compositions, lacking the complexity of a traditional oudh perfume essence, run the risk of coming across as rather aggressive (the dreaded Band Aid note) and a little too invasive, like a stranger in leather gear on public transport making intense eye contact out of the blue. Myrrh resin, bittersweet and poignant, is restraining the stomping boots of the oudh note. Two key ingredients which are featured in a clever way by perfumer composer Isabel Doyen are responsible for the rekindled interest. Nevertheless 1001 Ouds in Les Absolus d'Annick Goutal managed to not fulfill the desire for apostasy that ran in the back of my mind. Especially as the combination of oudh with rose has been the hallmark of tried and tested combinations surgically transplanted from Middle Eastern perfumery -where they thrive in local blends- and then watered down for western usage. Some say this particular trend is an unpardonable sin (and indeed only Chanel seems impervious to the flummox as of this moment) so an oud-centric perfume from Annick Goutal did not spell optimism in my heart of hearts. The trend for oudh has been going strong and every brand has embraced the innovations of the fragrance industry. That's because rather than being a fully fledged oud/aoudh fragrance this oriental elixir features myrrh in a key player position. Not unfittingly I had waited till I had written my articles on myrrh resin before writing my full perfume review of the latest Annick Goutal 1001 Ouds fragrance in the Les Absolus range. The gentle smokiness rendered by the earthy woody notes of vetiver is a welcome reminder that we're dealing with something that harkens back to the roots of perfumery "through smoke". The sweet facets brought out by the addition of benzoin and beeswax bring out a sticky "cola" note which is not at all at odds with the natural shade of the essential oil of myrrh. The Goutal fragrance implores us to look upon myrrh with eyes sooted with the blackest black of the lamp which burns lighting up the harem and to adorn our body with oils which speak of a thousand caravans carrying mysterious cargo across the Middle East. Proven wrong) that people seem to prefer either the opulent Ambre or theĭensely smoky Encens out of the quartet. Orient and it seems to me (only a casual observation which might be By the next year, another addition to the line increased the number by one: Musc Nomade a vegetal musk which I count among my most favorites, built on ambrette seed.Īll sensual fumes, molding themselves into the idea we have of the Of the times) translate into scents? The sensuous Les Orientalistes line was born initially a line of three fragrances for women or men which included Ambre Fetiche, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant. The harems (as seen in paintings by Ingres and the rest of the masters On the contrary, the element of myrrh was taken as a significant nod to the sweeping genre of Orientalism that marked the late 19th century and which almost singlehandedly - if we count Guerlain and Houbigant as those influenced by it - gave us modern perfumery.Ĭamille Goutal then and her perfumer Isabelle Doyen began with aīeautiful thesis proposition in 2007: how would oriental bath rituals of
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